wavecursed
within every blessing lies a curse
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What is this
Read more: What is thisThis web site is essentially a massive cope. It’s a goodbye letter to the thing I used to like doing most in life–surfing–which now represents a colossal, oppressive chore, a source of overwhelming guilt, anxiety, and regret. I will undoubtedly present my thoughts here in as sprawling and messy a fashion as a late-winter windswell…
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What’s the point?
Read more: What’s the point?Before the internet, when surfing was still sort of niche and tribal bonds were stronger, things like surf magazines and surf films were pretty important. I have no idea if Surfer or Surfing or Tracks magazines are still in operation. Maybe they have web sites. I do have a subscription to Surfline, only for the…
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Weird Friday
Read more: Weird FridayDecember 1994 was the best month of surf I’ve ever seen at Ocean Beach. It was double-triple overhead+ for three weeks straight with consistent, moderate offshores and well-groomed sandbars. Mavericks was breaking for much of that month too. The last week of that three-week stretch was particularly notable: Monday was Jay Day at Mavs, with…
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Salt
Read more: SaltTrevor and Chase jogged down to the edge of the water, clean white boards under right arms, fins back and facing in. They stretched and did a few twisting warmups, then launched into the relentless, pounding shorebreak, eventually fighting their way through to the long, roiling middle section, where you could sort of catch your…
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Nobody cares what you read or what films or music you like
Read more: Nobody cares what you read or what films or music you likeReading Cormac McCarthy, William Faulkner, Louis-Ferdinand Celine, Dorothy Parker, Edgar Allan Poe, Jean Genet, Joy Williams, George Saunders, Philip K. Dick, Ursula LeGuin, Robert Heinlein Substacks: Lee Fang, Aaron Mate, Matt Taibbi, NS Lyons, Mary Harrington, Michael Shellenberger, Seymour Hersh, Sam Kriss, Niccolo Soldo Films Ingmar Bergman, Michael Haneke, Jean-Luc Godard, Michelangelo Antonioni, Agnes Varda,…